Forever Chemicals in Your Makeup: France Banned Them, Canada Hasn't (What to Buy Instead)
- Lina Zhang
- 1 day ago
- 9 min read
On January 1, 2026, France officially banned "forever chemicals" in cosmetics, yet Canadian regulations won't catch up until at least 2029. While you wait for the law to protect you, these persistent toxins are likely accumulating in your body through your favorite waterproof mascara and long-wear lipstick.
Let's look at the regulatory gap leaving you exposed and the specific PFAS-free brands you can buy in Vancouver today to get ahead of the ban.
What Just Happened: The Regulatory Timeline
France became the first EU country to comprehensively ban PFAS in cosmetics. The law, passed in February 2025, prohibits the manufacture, import, export, and sale of any cosmetic product containing these chemicals.
French cosmetics worth €30 billion annually had to reformulate or disappear from shelves. Brands like L'Oréal finished their reformulations ahead of the deadline, proving alternatives exist and work.
Health Canada's Three-Phase Approach (March 2025)
On March 5, 2025, Environment and Climate Change Canada and Health Canada officially designated PFAS (excluding fluoropolymers) as "toxic substances" under the Canadian Environmental Protection Act (CEPA). The government then announced a phased ban:
Phase 1 (2025-2027): Firefighting foam
Consultation: Summer/Fall 2025
Proposed regulations: Spring 2027
Status: Underway, firefighting applications only
Phase 2 (2027-2029): Consumer products including cosmetics
Consultation: 2027 (after Phase 1 regulations published)
Target products: Cosmetics, food packaging, textiles, cleaning products
Proposed regulations: 2028-2029 (estimated)
Status: Coming, but not for another 1-2 years
Phase 3 (Timeline TBD): Products with no current alternatives
Includes prescription drugs, medical devices, industrial applications
No consultation date announced
Status: Distant future
The Gap That Matters
France banned PFAS in cosmetics January 1, 2026.California banned PFAS in cosmetics January 1, 2025.Canada will consult on cosmetics regulations sometime in 2027.
Even after consultation, proposed regulations won't be published until 2028-2029. Final implementation could be 2029-2030.
That means Canadian women are potentially 3-4 years behind France in regulatory protection.
What Are PFAS and Why Should Canadians Care?
The "Forever Chemicals" Explained
PFAS stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances. These are synthetic chemicals manufactured since the 1940s to make products waterproof, stain-resistant, and long-lasting.
They're called "forever chemicals" because they virtually never break down. The same properties that make them useful in makeup (water resistance, durability) make them dangerous in the environment and in our bodies.
According to Health Canada's March 2025 report, PFAS have been detected "in almost 100 percent of the Canadian population," including in blood and brain tissue.
Where PFAS Hide in Your Makeup
A 2021 study by researchers from the University of Notre Dame, University of Toronto, and other institutions tested 231 makeup products purchased in Canada and the United States.
They found high fluorine levels indicating probable PFAS in:
82% of waterproof mascaras tested
62% of foundations and face products
55% of lip products (especially liquid lipsticks)
The study found that 88% of products with high fluorine levels didn't list any PFAS ingredients on their labels.
Common PFAS ingredients you might see (or not see) on labels:
Perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
Perfluorodecalin
Perfluorononyl dimethicone
Perfluorohexane
Methyl perfluorobutyl ether
The Health Concerns
Health Canada's 2025 report confirmed that PFAS "can lead to adverse effects on the environment and human health."
Studies have linked PFAS exposure to:
Liver damage
High cholesterol
Immune system suppression
Thyroid disease
Reduced vaccine response in children
Low birth weight
Pregnancy-induced hypertension
Possible links to kidney and testicular cancers
Endocrine disruption
The U.S. FDA released a report on December 29, 2025, stating they could not confirm PFAS in cosmetics are safe, citing "significant uncertainty" due to data gaps.
Why Is Canada Slower Than France?
Different Regulatory Philosophies
France and the EU: Precautionary approach. When credible evidence suggests a chemical may pose risks, ban it while investigating further.
Canada: Risk-based approach. Assess the actual level of exposure, weigh socioeconomic factors, and regulate based on demonstrated risk.
Environment Minister Steven Guilbeault, announcing the plan in March 2025, called it "an unprecedented approach, since we're regulating the entire class of PFAS, and not just one substance, one molecule at a time." But "unprecedented" doesn't mean fast.
The Consultation Process
For each phase, Health Canada plans to:
Publish a consultation document (minimum 60-day comment period)
Review industry and public feedback
Publish proposed regulations (another 60-day comment period)
Review feedback again
Publish final regulations (within 18 months of proposed regulations)
This process prioritises thorough stakeholder engagement over speed.
Industry Considerations
Health Canada's approach explicitly considers:
Costs and benefits of prohibition
Availability of suitable alternatives
Socioeconomic impacts
What other jurisdictions are doing
France decided suitable alternatives exist. Health Canada is still consulting on whether they agree.
What's Actually in Your Makeup Right Now
Let's be specific about what Canadian women are using daily while waiting for Phase 2.
High-Risk Products
Waterproof Mascara: The 2021 study found PFAS in 82% of waterproof mascaras tested. Brands use PFAS to prevent smudging when exposed to water, tears, or humidity.
Long-Wear Foundation: Liquid foundations marketed as "long-lasting" or "all-day wear" frequently contain PFAS for staying power and smooth application.
Liquid Lipstick: Especially "transfer-proof" or "kiss-proof" formulas. PFAS help create that durable, matte finish that doesn't budge.
Eyeliner: Gel and liquid formulas marketed as waterproof or smudge-proof.
Brands Still Using PFAS
The 2021 study tested products from major brands including:
MAC
NARS
Estée Lauder
L'Oréal (though L'Oréal claims 100% reformulation by end of 2024)
Maybelline
CoverGirl
Clinique
Many of these brands are sold in Canadian Sephora and Shoppers Drug Mart locations right now.
How to Check Your Products
Read ingredient lists for terms containing "perfluoro" or "polyfluoro"
Use the EWG Skin Deep Database (ewg.org/skindeep) to check products
Download the Think Dirty app to scan barcodes while shopping
Avoid products marketed as:
Waterproof
Long-lasting
Transfer-proof
Smudge-proof
All-day wear
These marketing claims often indicate PFAS usage.
Canada vs France vs United States: The Regulatory Comparison
Country/Region | Ban Status | Effective Date | Coverage |
France | Enacted | January 1, 2026 | All cosmetics containing PFAS |
California | Enacted | January 1, 2025 | Intentional PFAS in cosmetics |
Washington State | Enacted | January 1, 2026 | PFAS in cosmetics |
Maine | Enacted | January 1, 2030 | All PFAS in all products |
Denmark | Enacted | July 1, 2026 | Specific consumer products |
Canada | Proposed Phase 2 | Consultation 2027, regulations 2028-2029+ | Cosmetics among other consumer products |
United States (Federal) | None | N/A | No federal ban |
European Union | Under review | TBD (2028 proposed) | EU-wide PFAS restriction proposal |
The pattern is clear: Canada is following, not leading, on PFAS regulation in cosmetics.
PFAS-Free Makeup You Can Buy in Canada Today
You don't need to wait for Phase 2 regulations. Here are PFAS-free alternatives available now through Canadian retailers.
Canadian-Made PFAS-Free Brands
1. Attitude Oceanly Mascara
Made in Canada
97.8% natural ingredients
EWG-verified, PFAS-free
Contains Tahitian microalgae for lash density
Available in black, brown, blue
Bamboo packaging
2. Amaterasu Beauty
Founded in Canada by makeup artist Sara Au Yeong
All products PFAS-free, paraben-free, phthalate-free
Liquid eyeliner and mascara collections
Designed for sensitive eyes
International Brands Available in Canada
3. 100% Pure
Fruit-pigmented makeup
All PFAS-free formulations
Waterproof mascara alternatives using natural waxes
4. RMS Beauty
Clean, minimal ingredient lists
No PFAS, no synthetic chemicals
Focus on organic ingredients
5. ILIA Beauty
Clean beauty brand with PFAS-free formulas
Popular "Limitless Lash" mascara
Long-wear products without PFAS
6. Juice Beauty
Organic formulations
PFAS-free, paraben-free
Full makeup line including mascara, foundation, lipstick
7. Au Naturale Cosmetics
Vegan, PFAS-free
Bold Statement Mascara (multiple colours)
Mostly organic, EcoCert certified
8. Kjaer Weis
Luxury clean beauty
Refillable packaging
All PFAS-free formulas
Major Brands Reformulating
L'Oréal Group (including Lancôme, Urban Decay, NYX)
Announced 100% PFAS-free by end of 2024
Reformulation ongoing since 2018
Check manufacturing dates on products
Where to Shop PFAS-Free in Vancouver
The Detox Market
Locations: Kitsilano (2847 W 4th Ave), Downtown
Curated selection of PFAS-free brands
Staff trained on clean beauty ingredients
Sephora Canada
Look for "Clean at Sephora" products
Not all are PFAS-free, but many brands under this label exclude them
Ask staff for PFAS-free recommendations
Whole Foods Market
Beauty section features many PFAS-free options
Strict ingredient standards
Locations across Metro Vancouver
Canadian online retailer
Filter for "clean beauty" options
Free shipping over $35
Shoppers Drug Mart
Increasing clean beauty selection
Brands like Juice Beauty, Burt's Bees
PC Green line (check ingredients)
The Cross-Border Shopping Question
Should You Buy U.S. Cosmetics Online?
Many Canadians shop U.S. sites like Ulta, Amazon.com, or directly from American brands. Here's what you need to know:
The Risk: Products manufactured for the U.S. market may contain PFAS that would be banned in France but are still legal in both Canada and the U.S.
CBSA Rules: You can bring cosmetics across the border for personal use. There's no quantity restriction for personal use, though duty may apply over $20 CAD value.
The Safer Approach: Stick to brands that have committed to PFAS-free formulations globally, not just in France or California.
Reading Labels on Cross-Border Products
If you do buy from U.S. sites:
Check if the brand has announced global PFAS-free commitments
Look for "California Proposition 65" compliance (good sign but not guarantee)
Verify the product isn't labeled "waterproof" or "long-lasting" without checking ingredients
Use ingredient checker apps before purchasing
What Happens Next: The Path to Phase 2
Timeline Predictions
Based on Health Canada's announced approach:
2027:
Spring/Summer: Phase 1 firefighting foam regulations published
Late 2027: Phase 2 consultation document released
Fall 2027: 60-day public comment period
2028:
Early 2028: Health Canada reviews feedback
Mid-2028: Proposed Phase 2 regulations published
Late 2028: Another 60-day comment period
2029:
Early 2029: Final regulations published (18 months after proposed regulations)
Mid-Late 2029: Regulations come into effect
2030:
Compliance deadlines
Retailer stock phase-out
This is optimistic. Delays are common in regulatory processes.
What Could Speed Things Up
Public pressure: Environmental Defence called the March 2025 announcement "a critical first step" but advocates continue pushing for faster action.
EU action: If the EU-wide PFAS restriction passes (under review by ECHA), Canada may accelerate to remain aligned with major trading partners.
Provincial action: If provinces like BC or Ontario move faster with their own restrictions, federal government may respond.
U.S. federal action: If the U.S. enacts the "No PFAS in Cosmetics Act" (introduced June 2021, still pending), Canada often follows U.S. regulatory changes.
How to Have Your Say
Health Canada's consultation in 2027 will include a public comment period. Canadians can:
Submit feedback when consultation opens (watch for announcements at canada.ca/pfas)
Contact your MP expressing concern about the timeline
Support environmental organizations like Environmental Defence advocating for faster action
Share information with friends and family about PFAS in cosmetics
The May 7, 2025 comment period for the general PFAS approach has closed, but future Phase 2-specific consultations will open.
FAQ: PFAS in Cosmetics Canada
Are PFAS banned in Canada?
Not yet in cosmetics. Health Canada announced a phased approach in March 2025, with cosmetics addressed in Phase 2, starting consultation in 2027. Final regulations won't come until at least 2028-2029.
Are PFAS in makeup dangerous?
Health Canada's 2025 report confirmed PFAS "can lead to adverse effects on the environment and human health." Studies link them to liver damage, immune suppression, reproductive issues, and possible cancer risks. The FDA says there's "significant uncertainty" about their safety in cosmetics.
Which makeup brands are PFAS-free in Canada?
Brands available in Canada that are PFAS-free include: Attitude Oceanly, Amaterasu Beauty, 100% Pure, RMS Beauty, ILIA Beauty, Juice Beauty, Au Naturale, Kjaer Weis. L'Oréal group brands claim 100% reformulation by end 2024.
How do I know if my makeup has PFAS?
Check ingredient lists for terms containing "perfluoro" or "polyfluoro." Use apps like EWG Skin Deep or Think Dirty to scan products. Avoid products marketed as waterproof or long-lasting without verification. Note: 88% of products with PFAS don't list them on labels.
Is waterproof mascara safe?
82% of waterproof mascaras tested in a 2021 study contained PFAS. If you use waterproof mascara, choose brands that explicitly state they're PFAS-free, like Attitude Oceanly or Au Naturale.
Can I still buy French makeup in Canada?
Yes, but products manufactured for the Canadian market may differ from those sold in France. French regulations only apply to products sold in France. The same brand may use different formulas for different countries.
When will Health Canada ban PFAS in cosmetics?
Based on the announced timeline: consultation in 2027, proposed regulations 2028, final regulations 2029, implementation 2029-2030. This could be delayed.
Are all PFAS being banned?
No. Fluoropolymers (a subset of PFAS) are excluded from Canada's ban. These are used in industrial applications and have different exposure profiles.
Is this just about women's makeup?
No. PFAS are in many cosmetics including shaving cream, cleansers, and nail polish. They're also in food packaging, textiles, cookware, and carpets. The Phase 2 ban targets multiple consumer product categories.
What about salon workers?
Nail technicians and salon workers face higher exposure because they handle cosmetics daily. Good ventilation and choosing PFAS-free products helps reduce occupational risk.
Why This Matters for Vancouver
Local Implications
Vancouver has among the highest cosmetics spending per capita in Canada. The city's beauty retail market includes major Sephora flagships, Holt Renfrew, and dozens of independent clean beauty stores.
Local retailers like The Detox Market were founded on the principle of curating safer beauty products before regulatory bans made it mandatory.
The 2-3 year gap before Phase 2 regulations means Vancouver consumers who want PFAS-free options need to be proactive. The good news: Vancouver's robust clean beauty retail infrastructure makes this easier than in many Canadian cities.
Taking Control of Your Cosmetics Safety
You don't need to wait for 2029 to make changes. Here's what Vancouver readers can do today:
1. Audit your makeup bag: Check your most-used products with ingredient apps
2. Replace high-risk items first: Start with waterproof mascara and liquid lipstick
3. Shop local clean beauty stores: Support Vancouver retailers prioritising safer products
4. Read labels: Make ingredient-checking a habit when shopping
5. Choose brands with commitments: Support companies that reformulated ahead of regulations
6. Share information: Tell friends what you've learned about PFAS
The French government decided its citizens shouldn't wait for perfect data to protect them from potentially harmful chemicals.
Canadian women can make the same choice individually, even while our government takes a slower, consultation-heavy approach.
The Bottom Line
France banned PFAS in cosmetics on January 1, 2026, after determining alternatives exist and the risks outweigh the benefits.
Health Canada plans to consult on cosmetics regulations in 2027, with implementation likely 2029-2030.
That's a 3-4 year gap where Canadian women continue daily exposure to chemicals that persist in the environment and accumulate in human bodies.
You can wait for Phase 2 regulations, or you can choose PFAS-free alternatives available in Vancouver and across Canada today.
The regulatory gap is real. The choice is yours.
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